News From Randy

98 civic check engine light on and code PO401 is stored, Removed the EGR valve , fuel injector rail, and the EGR passage plate that is under the Fuel injector Rail. Removed the Cover it has 6 bolts remove the cover and its reusable metal gasket. Clean out all the built up carbon from all the passages in the cover, clean the EGR passage holes in the intake on the perimeter of the area under the cover. There are 4 holes that will have carbon built up in them use a small screwdriver to poke the carbon in the small holes.
then some carb cleaner and a small wire or tiny round brush to thourghly clean all traces of carbon from the holes and the square hole under the EGR Valve into the EGR passage area. Reinstall the gasket and the cover and the fuel injector rail be sure to no lose any of the rubber o-rings seals from the fuel injectors!!!!! Use antiseize on all bolts going into the aluminum, and on the EGR mound studs,
Clear the code and road test to confirm repair.

Recently I worked on a 93 Escort and found it to have no codes in the computer, but the customer complained of it stalling once in a while at stops after a long drive. I connected the scan tool to the vehicle and went driving no problems . Checked Fuel pressure and all sensors, nothing, went for another drive noticed that once in a while the scan tool would show a no data sccreen.
This customer has the replacement battery clamps and the original fusable link connector that is originally a one piece on the negative battery clamp had been cut off and installed on the universal negative battery clamp on one of the battery cable holding nuts. It had shook loose and would bounce around and lose connection causeing a stalling,bucking condition. Replaced the negative battery clamp and retightened the loose fuse link connection .
Car Fixed
Always make sure the batery cables and clamps are nice and clean and properly tight.

The power seat on these cars is powered via a 10 guage oranbe/black wire from the pwr accy circuit breaker in the fuse block. Some models may have a convience center located somewhere under the das with a relay that the orange/black goes through but this one dis not found that the wire runs down the drivers side under the carpet inside of a plastic shield. You have to take the trim off the drivers side kick panel near your feet and the trim beside the drivers seat there I found the orange /black wire corroded in half repaired the wire and the seat works well. Yes corrosion even a little can cause big problems.

Do you have a Chevrolet Venture van or anything from GM with a 3.4L from 1996 and up? There is a TSB (technical service bulletin published by the manufacturer on this problem. The cause is leaking lower intake manifold gaskets. There is a intake manifold sealing kit avail from GM its a lot of very tedios work and lots of dissasembly but the out come is a longer lasting vehicle

1988 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L Black smoke from exhaust and bucking at about 35 unless your foot was on the floor. Found that the MAP sensor vacuum line had come loose from the throttle body. This fitting is on the passenger side of the throttle body the rubber fitting had fallen out of the throttle body I epoxied the fitting back into the throttle body and the vehicle was fixed ran good no more black smoke

1988 S-10 Checrolet Pick-up 4.3L running ok Parked it and one Hour Later woul not start. the engine would just turn over, no spark,no fuel injector Pulse. Verified Failure with a “noid light” and a 12V Test Light. There Was 12Volts on the Pink wire going into the ignition Module with the Ignition in the “on” position and engine Not running or cranking, this condition is normal.

Changed The Ignition Module, Fixed the vehicle

I just wanted everyone to know Ace Automotive is closed! Thank you to everyone who has patronized us for 14 years,

I am here to say NO auto parts are not auto parts especially when it comes to expensive exotic high priced European Luxury Vehicles.
I see quite often people who drive one of these kinds of vehicles, and sometimes a high priced Aamerican luxury vehicle or SUV like the guy who drives in to the shop in a $50,000+ Mercedes and wants brakes, I don’t mind working on such a vehicle but I always ask why why why would you buy such a high maintenance vehicle knowing that it is going to require regular scheduled maintenance by someone who is qualified in the repairs and maintenance of such a vehicle.
Those expensive European cars should be serviced by the people who went to school to specifically work on that make of car not just any technician can fix them! And the parts are special you can’t just go to a retail parts store and get the same super high quality replacement parts as came on the car originally,remember what your car was like new? It had all factory parts on it and now that you have had some independant repair shop work on it its just not the same, now is it? So what it was cheaper but you loved it the way it was new thats why you bought it ,right? So why not keep it that way and use only factory parts and service to make sure everything is as it was. Those cars have things that make them what they are, and special tools and diagnostic equipment that noone else has not to mention doesnt know how to diagnose or fix. like special clips to hold the brake pads in, procedures for everything that if not followed to the letter will result in a poor repair. like special clips, made to the manufacturers specs,aftermarket parts fit but are NOT right and will not provide you with the quality that you want and deserve.
So I encourage all owners of those expensive cars to keep it original and go to the dealer, if you cannot affford it you have bought more car than you can afford, most time to impress someone but its not their problem when YOUR expensive european car needs service its yours so you bought it deal with it correctly and do to the dealer and get it done by the people who only work on those all day every day not just any shop cause it will not be the same most of the time, and you will likely end up at the dealer anyway.

Nearly every day I hear it, a customer brings in an older vehicle (1987-1994) and sometimes a newer vehicle for repairs. I check out what is troubling them and tell them the price for needed repairs.
They say can we keep it down cause I only drive it back and forth to work. I think what else do we use our vehicles for? Are our cars like pool cues we use one to break with and one to play the game with. Or is your car like kids clothes the ones they wear to school and then come home and change into their play clothes?
So people have a work car and then when they get home they drive a better vehicle after that? Must be nice!
Think about it this is a vehicle that takes you to the place that helps provide you with the means to feed you and your family, pay bills ,have fun or whatever, so why would you just drive it till it falls apart, I think you would take reasonable care of it considering what it is asked to do, start every day rush into the traffic stream stop on a dime to avoid that guy in front of you. Idle for hours at a time daily while you are stuck in traffic, keep you dry in the pouring rain and get you back home to that other car the one that you use when you are not just driving to work.So the next time your just go to work car is in need of work think of its needs too cause it sure helps you with yours!

I recently had to diagnose a 1987 Mazda 626 2.0i for a cranks but no start condition. When it first came to me I checked spark first, no spark from the plug wires, backed up to the coil wire, I did have spark from the coil wire. But there was a large amount of corrosion in the disributor cap coil tower and on the coil wire.
Changed the cap, rotor, and coil wire, vehicle started on the first try. I let it run and warm up and went on a short road test, the engine stalled and would not restart. I got it back to the shop and went back to the ignition system checks, this time no spark from the coil wire or no pulse from the injector harness when I plugged in a “noid” light!
I connected my Snap-On Modis diagnostic system to the vehicles harness connector (located on the passenger side on the firewall under the dash near the floor in front of the center console a white rectangular six wire connector) I got NO CODES! OH God. Ok using the troubleshooter built in to the Modis I located the symptoms closest to mine (no spark no noid) the course of diagnostics told me to check the vehicles reference voltage at major sensors TPS,MAP,AIR FLOW METER I disconnected the TPS and checked voltage it was 4.99vdc I reconnected the TPS and disconnected the (what I thought was the MAP sensor) and the voltage was 5.02vdc air flow meter was also 5.02vdc next was to leave my meter connected to the sensor that measured lower than 5.00vdc and disconnect sensors until the voltage came to over 5.0vdc ,when I disconnected the (supposed map sensor) the voltage jumped up to 5.02vdc indicating a shorted sensor the sensor,I tried to start and it started right away! I thought was a MAP sensor was actually a BOOST SENSOR, I installed a used boost sensor and thought I had found the problem the vehicle idled about a minuite or so and “died ” again again no spark or noid.
I tested the voltage for the distributor and had 12vdc on the + terminal of the coil with the key on and 12vd on the - terminal of the coil with the key on BUT A TEST LIGHT DID NOT FLASH WHEN CONNECTED TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE IGNITION COIL AND CRANKING INDICATING A PRIMARY IGNITION PROBLEM.
I replacedthe distributor and the vehicle is fixed and runs perfect.
Oh yea that BOOST SENSOR IS $400. AT THE DEALER
AND THE DISTRIBUTOR NEW IS $ 600. test before you replace!

I find a large number of vehicles that arrive at Ace Automotive with the improper spark plugs installed. all too many people just go to any parts reatil store and ask for spark plugs for their vehicle.

Of course the parts clerk does what he is hired to do sells them plugs. Some vehicles take double platinum plugs, some do not I recommend to ALWAYS USE THE FACTORY SPARK PLUGS, Look on the emissions decal under the hood and often times it lists the spark plugs that are in the vehicle.

Please do not believe all the propaganda that you are given at the parts store,better mileaage, more power, lower emissions just by installing their featured spark plugs! The original equipment spark plugs are the best technology for that vehicle and should always be used, if you cannot afford the proper parts, do not settle for substitutes or copies or do not buy something thinking its the same only cheaper cause it’s not!

AC DELCO go in GM vehicles
CHAMPIONS Go in Chrysler Vehicles
NGK AND NIPPONDESSO go in asian vehicles
BOSCH GO IN EUROPEAN VEHICLES
AUTOLITES go in FORD VEHICLES

Don’t whine about it just do it right and it will run right.

Had a couple of vehicles that fall into this category. First one was a 2002 Pontiac Gran Am with a 3.4L this customer had a check engine light on and a poor running vehicle, he took it to some facility and they did a “tune-up” no diagnostics just did it.
He arrived at Ace Automotive asking if we could help him, of course I said I connected the Modis diagnostic unit to his vehicle and found a code PO300 (random misfire) and a PO420(catalic converter failure) I connected the scope and read the ignition system waveforms all firing lines were good ,fuel pressure was 60 PSI I recommended a fuel injection cleaning as the ignition system proved good.
I used the shops BG fuel injection cleaning system to clean the fuel injectors after the procedure the vehicle ran as it did when he bought it new.
The second vehicle was a 1989 Ford Aerostar Van, with a 3.0L engine, this vehicle “missed” badly at idle adn on acceleration these people also changed the spark plugs and wires, as on the Pontiac I checked the Ignition with the scope and fuel pressure, checked the timing, vacuum and recommended that we clean the injectors this vehicle also came out so remarkable that the customer was speechless it was like “a whole nuther van” she said, the power returned and fuel mileage increased.
So it’s not always those spark plugs ,now is it?

I pride myself on my ability to diagnose and repair most yes only most things I come into contact with on a daily basis. I believe that no matter how much you know or how long you’ve done it you will,not might eventually come to something that seems like you should be able to fix it with your eyes closed cause you’ve see it “a thousand time before”. BUT I have learned that if it seems simple those are the tough ones. Case in point I was asked to help diagnose an older Mazda car that would crank but would not start. So I go with my chip on my shoulder and do as usual and ask all the questions when did it stop what did it do and so on and so on.
This particular car had spark to the plugs I was told by the customer who by the way is a well respected engine builder and fair technician. I tested for injector pulse it was ok customer tested for compression it was good there was no cranking vacuum! Great I think its like that last car that did this very thing to me the cat converter was plugged. Yes it had proper fuel pressure. the spark was being tested by disconnecting a plug wire and holding it near ground adn cranking the engine nice! a bright blue spark on all 4!
The customer had a friend that used to work for a major dealer and asked for a hand, he did a test he learned in his years and years of working in the business and came up to the answer.
A BAD DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR! Changed the cap and rotor and it runs fine so I believe that not only do you need to believe in yourself but never think you know it all cause you havent seen it all YET!

1993 Ford F-150 parking lights and dome ,instrument panel guages lights out. Fuse ok Removed headlight switch and found a burn spot on the headlight switch connector due likey to heat caused by resistance. Replaced the headlight switch the burnt spot was not too bad and was cleaned up and put back into service. The lights work properly now, but we must momitor them due to the high likelyhood of fire with ford headlight switches

Customer Brings us a 1995 ford windstar Van with a 3.8L engine. Says when it would get hot it would’nt start the van was running when he brought it to me , I asked him to shut it off and see what he was talkin about when it would’nt start, he turned off the engine and tried to restart it NOTHING! I asked if I could raise the van on the hoist to look at the starter he agreed, I noticed he had a replacement starter from a known rip-off joint here in the area, I asked him why he went there he said it seemed like the van needed a starter and they offer a lifetime warranty they did as usual put in a (what customers are told to be) rebuilt starter , the van still did not start so the customer was told the “S” wire was bad and connected a piece of wire from the “S” terminal of the starter up to the battery the customer was told when he needed to start the van to turn on the ignition and touch the wire they had cobbled up to the positive post of the vehicle battery and the engine will start, (well I sure hope so I believe this is called HOT WIRING).
He came to me awith this problem and I disconnected their bogus wire and reconnected the factory wire to the “S” terminal on the starter. The wire that goes to the starter ‘S’ terminal is RED/WHITE FROM the TRANSMISSION RANGE SELECTOR (neutral safety switch). Making sure the wire was not brken I tested the WHITE wire FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH to the TRANSMISSION RANGE SELECTOR for battery voltage with the key in the START POSITION, It was present, I reconnected the connector to the neutral safety switch and backprobed the RED/WHITE wire to the starter for battery voltage, NONE First I made sure the connector was COMPLETELY CONNECTED and all wires were seated as they need to be. Now the vehicle started, The only thing wrong was the wire fronm the neutral safety switch to the starter ‘S’ terminal had backed out of the connector slightly I corrected the wire connection and fixed the vehicle.

Wiring schematics helped me dramatically in this fix also taking the time to think of the things he did that were unnecessary,changing the starter at a place that never checks out the vehicle just sells starters and alternators just put em on and collect money oops you must have another problem but we don’t do that work! Should be their MOTTO!

Take the time to test twice fix once!

1999 Jeep cherokee 4.0L Reported to not start, began getting worse in the cold weather. Got it to the shop checked the basics oil,water and did a visual inspection to make sure nothing had obviously come loose .
Connected the Scan tool to the OBDII connector under the dash and retreived the codes one code for the vehicle not warming up quick as it should. customer added that he was having problems starting it in the cold and was getting poor heat. Scanner showed that the vehicle was not getting warmed up quick enough and ws not going into CLOSED LOOP soon enough. Connected the scope to the ignition and got some weird readings checked the cap and wires and plugs (plugs had been changed in a service previously by another facility) the cap and rotor showed signes of excessive wear and miles since NEW! I touched the coil wire with my finger and was going to take it off the distributor cap to check for corrosion and it broke in half! Told customer we were going to change distributor cap rotor, and wires as well as the thermostat, he agreed changed all the parts and retested vehicle started quicker ,warmed up properly and ran like new.

* Thermostats can and do have something to do with starting in newer OBDII vehicles

A 93 chevy K-1500 was just recently “tuned-up”
New factory AC Delco plugs,cap,Rotor and Fuel filter About A week later the customer went to the wilderness camping all running perfect. He said he hit a small hole in the road and the truck “just shut off” Damn! It would only turn over but not start, If fuel was added to the throttle body the truck would start and die shortly after. After a hundred mile tow, the 20A inline fuel pump fuse ( located on the Passenger side of the firewall behind a plastic cover ,there is the fuel pump relay and some battery connections and Inside of a small plastic housing there is the fuel pump fuse )(it has tan/black wires coming from it!) Release the Locking Tab on the holder and gently pull down you’ll find the fuel pump fuse So I guess the moral is Don’t forget about this very important fuse on your 90s Full Size Gm Truck.
I changed the fuse the truck started right up!, did an amp draw test on the fuel pump it was acceptable ,The customer was given their truck and is still running fine .

Stalling, rough surging idle. cleaned throttle body,checked timing ok.
No vacuum leaks,
Unable to do KOER (key on engine running) test unable to raise idle speed during test.
changed MAP sensor. fixed it

This vehicle has run perfect for the past 13 years as long as I have known the people who have owned it , one day in the middle of the afternoon they tried to start it nothing! just crank, I went to their home just close by the shop, no spark, oil leakage from a leaking valve cover gasket had oil all over the distributor housing, removed the distributor cap and discoverd oil in the distributor, no “pulse” at the coil, already knowing the history of nissan distributors I installed a new distributor, car started fine and runs perfect again.

On ford products in the mid 90s is the dome light won’t go out or the door open “dinger” keeps going even if your driving check all the door jam switches to make sure they ar not shorting out against the body, even the rear doors.

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